Cassoulet

Karin Welzel of the Pittsburgh Tribune Review featured Chef Porco's recipe for Cassoulet in today's Sunday paper; this blog gives me the perfect opportunity to expand on the food & wine matching aspects of the dish.

First of all - what is Cassoulet? Cassoulet is a rich, slow-cooked bean stew or casserole originating in the southwest of France, containing meat (typically pork sausages, pork, goose, duck and sometimes mutton), pork skin (couennes) and white haricot beans. From a wine standpoint, Cassoulet is popular in two regions that offer tremendous bang for the buck, but are perhaps a bit of the beaten track.

The first region I would look to if you are considering giving a try to Chef Porco's dish is the Loire. Loire reds are somehwat akin to Bordeaux - perhaps the little cousins of Bordeaux. Some of my favorite Loire reds are from the appellation of Chinon. The village of Chinon is probably best known as the birthplace of the French author Francois Rabelais but is quickly gaining a reputation for its well-priced reds made from Cabernet France. In fact, I have been enjoying for my house red (literally at my home with dinner) a flavorful, robust Chinon from a producer that is new to me - Clos de la Lysardiere (PLCB#20166). The wine features explosive currant and raspberry fruit and a pronounced, mouthwatering palate, yet is supple and approachable. I love the fact that the Lysardiere Chinon holds up well in the bottle too, so that if I finish my day of work with only a glass or two of wine, I can return to the same wine the following day with no ill effects.

There's another direction as well, one that I prefer evry so slightly. For dishes with many flavors and ingredients - Paella is another one that comes to mind - I tend to like red blends in their various forms. This leads me to think of another region in the south of France - the Languedoc - where Cassoulet is also very common. Although I try to "mix up" are wines by the glass, on and off for the past several months we have enjoyed pouring a three grape blend from an appellation called Corbieres. The wine is Famille Ligneres Corbieres Rouge "Chateau de la Baronne" and it is a blend of of Carignan, Mourvedre and Grenache. The wine offers the psice and structure of Carignan, the deep color and earthy aromas of Mourvedre and red cherried elegance of Grenache. Its complexity is worthy of a multifaceted dish such as Cassoulet.

I hope these ideas lead you in the right direction. If you are looking for a true stunner, I would certainly consider a fine Bordeaux or Chateauneuf-du-Pape as well with your Cassoulet. At the same time, Cassoulet offers a great chance to branch out into the unheralded wines of the Loire or Languedoc, and, most importantly, an opportunity to drink great wine without breaking the bank.

Bon appettit.