2006 Wolfberger Edelzwicker

2006 Wolfberger Edelzwicker
Alsace, France
60 % Pinot Blanc + Sylvaner + Chasselas, 15% Gewurztraminer, 10% Riesling, 10 % Pinot Gris and 5 % Muscat
2006

Okay. I admit, this rather interesting little Alsatian white might take a bit of explanation. Let's start with the term Edelzwicker. Zwicker means "blend", something that this wine clearly is. "Edel" means noble. Edelweiss, the Alpine flower of Sound of Music fame means the Noble White. Sticking to winemaking, botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot" that infects white grapes throughout the world making ethereal dessert wines is called Edel faule in German. So Edelzwicker is literally "the noble blend". Clearly further explanation is required.

Alsace is in many ways the easiest French wine region for the grape-variety driven American consumer to understand. Alsatian wines are generally labelled by grape variety, so we have popular wines such as Etienne Hugel Pinot Blanc, another wine that is currently on our list. Hugel is the producer and Pinot Blanc is the grape. Easy enough. This hasn't always been the case.

In fact, it was relatively recently in terms of French wine history (the 1920's in fact) that saw Alsatian wine producers affixing the grape varieties to their labels. It was more common in the past for them to have a whole slew of different grapes planted among each other in the vineyards. The wines were called Zwicker - blended wines. Seven grape varieties became recognized for the superior quality: Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Chasselas, Pinot Gris, Gewurtztraminer, Riesling and Muscat. Blends containing only these "noble grape varieties" became known as Edelzwicker, "noble blends". (For those who actually care, other grapes deemed to be inferior, but still cultivated in the past were, for example, Knipperle, Trollinger and Pinot Meunier, all of which are outlawed for classified Alsatian wines today.)

While most every Alsatian wine now lists the grape variety (it must be 100% of the given grape) some producers still hold on to the tradition of blending the seven noble grapes together in the form of Edelzwicker. This practice is particularly advantageous for a producer such as Wolfberger since it is quite large. But even this part of the story is asteresked as well!

Wolfberger is what is called a Cave Cooperative, a collection of many small growers whose combined efforts are marketed as one, allowing for a pooled, unified marketing opportunity. There are over 800 members.

In the end, that which is in the bottle is most important, and I found the Wolfberger Edelzwicker to be a perfect introduction to the scented whites of Alsace. The nose has the expected complexity of a wine from such varied parentage, although in my opinion the lychee nut aromas that give Gewurtztraminer its signature shine through most prominently. The palate is light-bodied, ripe but not sweet and vibrant, highlighting the subtle petrol and fruit of Riesling.

Antinori Dinner - NEW DATE

Given that so many people will be enjoying dinners next week for Valentine's Day, we have decided to move back the dates of the Antinori Dinners. The dates are now Wednesday, February 27th and Thursday, February 28th.

Marchesi Antinori Wine Dinner

Chef/Owner Matthew Porco and Sommelier Alan Uchrinscko cordially invite you to join them for a wine dinner featuring the wines of Marchesi Antinori.

The Antinori family has been making wine for over six hundred years, since Giovanni di Piero Antinori became part of the Arte Fiorentina dei Vinattieri in 1385. Throughout its long history, spanning 26 generations, the family has always personally managed the business making innovative, sometimes courageous choices, always with unwavering respect for tradition and the land.The real revolution came in 1971, with the launch of Tignanello, a barrique-aged wine from the eponymous vineyard that contained Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Ineligible for the Chianti Classico appellation (for which only Sangiovese was permitted), Tignanello and later Solaia (an 80%Cabernet-Based wine from the same Chianti Classico region) shook up the Italian wine industry, leading to far-reaching changes in rules and attitudes and introducing the world to the concept of so-called Super-Tuscan wines.

Chef Porco's five-course Tuscan-themed menu will be served alongside a tasting of Antinori's legendary wines. A total of eight wines will be tasted, including two whites (Vermentino and Chardonnay), three vintages of Brunello from Antinori's Pian delle Vigne estate and the world-famous Super-Tuscans – Solaia and Tignanello (Wine Spectator's #4 and #7 Wines of the Year). The tastingwill conclude with a special dessert prepared by Pastry Chef Barbara Ferguson paired with Antinori's Castello della Salla Muffato sweet wine.

This very special event will be limited to twelve people per evening for two consecutive nights: one on Tuesday, February 19th and the other on Wednesday, February 20th. Dinner will start promptly at 6:30pm.

The cost of the dinner is $210.00 per person (tax and gratuity not included).
For more information, visit Mio Kitchen & Wine Bar or call 412.781.3141.

Cassoulet

Karin Welzel of the Pittsburgh Tribune Review featured Chef Porco's recipe for Cassoulet in today's Sunday paper; this blog gives me the perfect opportunity to expand on the food & wine matching aspects of the dish.

First of all - what is Cassoulet? Cassoulet is a rich, slow-cooked bean stew or casserole originating in the southwest of France, containing meat (typically pork sausages, pork, goose, duck and sometimes mutton), pork skin (couennes) and white haricot beans. From a wine standpoint, Cassoulet is popular in two regions that offer tremendous bang for the buck, but are perhaps a bit of the beaten track.

The first region I would look to if you are considering giving a try to Chef Porco's dish is the Loire. Loire reds are somehwat akin to Bordeaux - perhaps the little cousins of Bordeaux. Some of my favorite Loire reds are from the appellation of Chinon. The village of Chinon is probably best known as the birthplace of the French author Francois Rabelais but is quickly gaining a reputation for its well-priced reds made from Cabernet France. In fact, I have been enjoying for my house red (literally at my home with dinner) a flavorful, robust Chinon from a producer that is new to me - Clos de la Lysardiere (PLCB#20166). The wine features explosive currant and raspberry fruit and a pronounced, mouthwatering palate, yet is supple and approachable. I love the fact that the Lysardiere Chinon holds up well in the bottle too, so that if I finish my day of work with only a glass or two of wine, I can return to the same wine the following day with no ill effects.

There's another direction as well, one that I prefer evry so slightly. For dishes with many flavors and ingredients - Paella is another one that comes to mind - I tend to like red blends in their various forms. This leads me to think of another region in the south of France - the Languedoc - where Cassoulet is also very common. Although I try to "mix up" are wines by the glass, on and off for the past several months we have enjoyed pouring a three grape blend from an appellation called Corbieres. The wine is Famille Ligneres Corbieres Rouge "Chateau de la Baronne" and it is a blend of of Carignan, Mourvedre and Grenache. The wine offers the psice and structure of Carignan, the deep color and earthy aromas of Mourvedre and red cherried elegance of Grenache. Its complexity is worthy of a multifaceted dish such as Cassoulet.

I hope these ideas lead you in the right direction. If you are looking for a true stunner, I would certainly consider a fine Bordeaux or Chateauneuf-du-Pape as well with your Cassoulet. At the same time, Cassoulet offers a great chance to branch out into the unheralded wines of the Loire or Languedoc, and, most importantly, an opportunity to drink great wine without breaking the bank.

Bon appettit.

Thanks to China Millman

A special thanks to Ms. China Millman for our mention in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette! A great way to bring in the New Year and an equally great way to reaffirm our commitment to expanding and satisfying fine dining throughout the Pittsburgh region...you can read the article online:

As we look ahead with hope, we also look back at improving restaurant scene

2005 Vidal-Fleury Crozes-Hermitage

I recently went through an enjoyable tasting of a small handful of wines from the 250 year old Rhone Negociant Vidal-Fleury. I was pretty impressed across the board; from the fresh, cherry-fruit Cotes du Rhone to the green olive tinged 2001 St. Joseph that's just starting to gain complex secondary characteristics, the wines were very nice. I ultimately settled on the 2005 Crozes-Hermitage to add to the list, both by the bottle and by the glass.




2005 Vidal-Fleury Crozes-Hermitage
"The nose is dominated by pure Syrah fruit - black fruits with blue fruit highlights - and subtle empyreumatic hints (leather, tar). This is what Syrah should smell like and almost never does in its mimicked Australian form Shiraz. Medium- to full-bodied but balanced and not bulky on the palate. Just enough tannic grip to create nice structure while remaining very approachable."

2004 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve

Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve

Willamette Valley, Oregon
Pinot Noir
2004

Wow. One word may be enough. Domaine Serene's Evenstad Reserve from the Willamette Valley never fails to impress, and this year's offering is no exception.

The wine comes from a blend of Wadenswil, Dijon and Pommard Pinot Noir clones. It is sourced from vineyards in the Eola Hills and Dundee Hills, and despite my attention to the terroir of Oregon, I have difficulty distinguishing between wines sourced from either of these two areas. The result to me always seems to me to be pure red cherry fruits in either case; perhaps the fruit is a little darker (i.e., a little more bluberry and/or raspberry) in the Dundee Hills.

Domaine Serene's wines to me have always mimicked the character of another outstanding Oregon Winery, Archery Summit, with their Oriental Spice Box and Red Cherry aromas.

"Notes of cloves and sweet tobacco with red and to a lesser extent black cherries on the nose. This year's Evenstad Reserve is more forward than others in the past. Light-bodied with perfect balance. Thrillingly aromatic and silky. Outstanding."

The Evenstad is on its way to Mio very shortly and, although I didn't take notes, I was also enthusiastic about the Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee - a wine I have alread added to our list.

Bravo!