Cassoulet

Karin Welzel of the Pittsburgh Tribune Review featured Chef Porco's recipe for Cassoulet in today's Sunday paper; this blog gives me the perfect opportunity to expand on the food & wine matching aspects of the dish.

First of all - what is Cassoulet? Cassoulet is a rich, slow-cooked bean stew or casserole originating in the southwest of France, containing meat (typically pork sausages, pork, goose, duck and sometimes mutton), pork skin (couennes) and white haricot beans. From a wine standpoint, Cassoulet is popular in two regions that offer tremendous bang for the buck, but are perhaps a bit of the beaten track.

The first region I would look to if you are considering giving a try to Chef Porco's dish is the Loire. Loire reds are somehwat akin to Bordeaux - perhaps the little cousins of Bordeaux. Some of my favorite Loire reds are from the appellation of Chinon. The village of Chinon is probably best known as the birthplace of the French author Francois Rabelais but is quickly gaining a reputation for its well-priced reds made from Cabernet France. In fact, I have been enjoying for my house red (literally at my home with dinner) a flavorful, robust Chinon from a producer that is new to me - Clos de la Lysardiere (PLCB#20166). The wine features explosive currant and raspberry fruit and a pronounced, mouthwatering palate, yet is supple and approachable. I love the fact that the Lysardiere Chinon holds up well in the bottle too, so that if I finish my day of work with only a glass or two of wine, I can return to the same wine the following day with no ill effects.

There's another direction as well, one that I prefer evry so slightly. For dishes with many flavors and ingredients - Paella is another one that comes to mind - I tend to like red blends in their various forms. This leads me to think of another region in the south of France - the Languedoc - where Cassoulet is also very common. Although I try to "mix up" are wines by the glass, on and off for the past several months we have enjoyed pouring a three grape blend from an appellation called Corbieres. The wine is Famille Ligneres Corbieres Rouge "Chateau de la Baronne" and it is a blend of of Carignan, Mourvedre and Grenache. The wine offers the psice and structure of Carignan, the deep color and earthy aromas of Mourvedre and red cherried elegance of Grenache. Its complexity is worthy of a multifaceted dish such as Cassoulet.

I hope these ideas lead you in the right direction. If you are looking for a true stunner, I would certainly consider a fine Bordeaux or Chateauneuf-du-Pape as well with your Cassoulet. At the same time, Cassoulet offers a great chance to branch out into the unheralded wines of the Loire or Languedoc, and, most importantly, an opportunity to drink great wine without breaking the bank.

Bon appettit.

Thanks to China Millman

A special thanks to Ms. China Millman for our mention in the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette! A great way to bring in the New Year and an equally great way to reaffirm our commitment to expanding and satisfying fine dining throughout the Pittsburgh region...you can read the article online:

As we look ahead with hope, we also look back at improving restaurant scene

2005 Vidal-Fleury Crozes-Hermitage

I recently went through an enjoyable tasting of a small handful of wines from the 250 year old Rhone Negociant Vidal-Fleury. I was pretty impressed across the board; from the fresh, cherry-fruit Cotes du Rhone to the green olive tinged 2001 St. Joseph that's just starting to gain complex secondary characteristics, the wines were very nice. I ultimately settled on the 2005 Crozes-Hermitage to add to the list, both by the bottle and by the glass.




2005 Vidal-Fleury Crozes-Hermitage
"The nose is dominated by pure Syrah fruit - black fruits with blue fruit highlights - and subtle empyreumatic hints (leather, tar). This is what Syrah should smell like and almost never does in its mimicked Australian form Shiraz. Medium- to full-bodied but balanced and not bulky on the palate. Just enough tannic grip to create nice structure while remaining very approachable."

2004 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve

Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve

Willamette Valley, Oregon
Pinot Noir
2004

Wow. One word may be enough. Domaine Serene's Evenstad Reserve from the Willamette Valley never fails to impress, and this year's offering is no exception.

The wine comes from a blend of Wadenswil, Dijon and Pommard Pinot Noir clones. It is sourced from vineyards in the Eola Hills and Dundee Hills, and despite my attention to the terroir of Oregon, I have difficulty distinguishing between wines sourced from either of these two areas. The result to me always seems to me to be pure red cherry fruits in either case; perhaps the fruit is a little darker (i.e., a little more bluberry and/or raspberry) in the Dundee Hills.

Domaine Serene's wines to me have always mimicked the character of another outstanding Oregon Winery, Archery Summit, with their Oriental Spice Box and Red Cherry aromas.

"Notes of cloves and sweet tobacco with red and to a lesser extent black cherries on the nose. This year's Evenstad Reserve is more forward than others in the past. Light-bodied with perfect balance. Thrillingly aromatic and silky. Outstanding."

The Evenstad is on its way to Mio very shortly and, although I didn't take notes, I was also enthusiastic about the Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee - a wine I have alread added to our list.

Bravo!

2005 Argiano Non Confunditor

Argiano Non Confunditor

Tuscany, Italy

40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Syrah, 20% Sangiovese

2005, 14% Alcohol

Argiano is a noteworthy producer of Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino and stands among the giants of Tuscany with its well-known Super-Tuscan Solengo. Beginning in 2002 Argiano has made Non Confunditor each year as a more affordable alternative to Solengo that at the same time gives wine drinkers a taste of its more famous Super-Tuscan cousin. Non-Confunditor pays hommage to the winery's past as they are the Latin words written upon the Argiano Coat of Arms.

"Spicy black cherries with a touch of tobacco leaf and tree bark. The palate is initially tight with a good dose of chalky, vanillin tannins in the finish but opens nicely to become a masculine, licorice-laden wine that's perfect with red meats and stronger cheeses."