2005 Vidal-Fleury Crozes-Hermitage

I recently went through an enjoyable tasting of a small handful of wines from the 250 year old Rhone Negociant Vidal-Fleury. I was pretty impressed across the board; from the fresh, cherry-fruit Cotes du Rhone to the green olive tinged 2001 St. Joseph that's just starting to gain complex secondary characteristics, the wines were very nice. I ultimately settled on the 2005 Crozes-Hermitage to add to the list, both by the bottle and by the glass.




2005 Vidal-Fleury Crozes-Hermitage
"The nose is dominated by pure Syrah fruit - black fruits with blue fruit highlights - and subtle empyreumatic hints (leather, tar). This is what Syrah should smell like and almost never does in its mimicked Australian form Shiraz. Medium- to full-bodied but balanced and not bulky on the palate. Just enough tannic grip to create nice structure while remaining very approachable."

2004 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve

Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve

Willamette Valley, Oregon
Pinot Noir
2004

Wow. One word may be enough. Domaine Serene's Evenstad Reserve from the Willamette Valley never fails to impress, and this year's offering is no exception.

The wine comes from a blend of Wadenswil, Dijon and Pommard Pinot Noir clones. It is sourced from vineyards in the Eola Hills and Dundee Hills, and despite my attention to the terroir of Oregon, I have difficulty distinguishing between wines sourced from either of these two areas. The result to me always seems to me to be pure red cherry fruits in either case; perhaps the fruit is a little darker (i.e., a little more bluberry and/or raspberry) in the Dundee Hills.

Domaine Serene's wines to me have always mimicked the character of another outstanding Oregon Winery, Archery Summit, with their Oriental Spice Box and Red Cherry aromas.

"Notes of cloves and sweet tobacco with red and to a lesser extent black cherries on the nose. This year's Evenstad Reserve is more forward than others in the past. Light-bodied with perfect balance. Thrillingly aromatic and silky. Outstanding."

The Evenstad is on its way to Mio very shortly and, although I didn't take notes, I was also enthusiastic about the Domaine Serene Yamhill Cuvee - a wine I have alread added to our list.

Bravo!

Robert Vocoret Chablis

Domaine Robert Vocoret is nestled just outside of Chablis on the Route d'Auxerre and produces wines from some of the most choice parcels in the area. Premier Crus include Montee de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, Foret, Vaillons, Montmains and Cote de Lechet. Vocoret also has holdings in the Grands Crus Valmur, Blanchots, les Clos and Vaudesir; the domaine is probably best known for its Grand Cru Blanchots as a green tank used for the Brentag method of heating vines and labeled Domaine Vocoret awaits a visitor to the slopes of Grand Cru Chablis (it is located about mid-slope, adjacent to the dirt road that separates les Clos and Blanchots).

There is some oak at Vocoret and the wines are generally made in an accessible style, although they do age over the medium term very well. Much of the wood that the wine sees is actually via the now almost defunct large wooden foudres that remind one of bygone days - for very gentle flavoring.

I have generally found Domaine Vocoret's wines to be dependable and at times quite outstanding with the exceptin of the 2003 Chablis AC - a wine that is so marked with acidification that it is nearly undrinkable. Even so, a vintage so hot as 2003 happens - well almost never - and I certainly want to judge a winery by their reaction to such a freakish vintage.

I recently tasted a pair of wine, both from the lauded 2005 vintage. One, the 2005 Chablis AC was good, but the 2005 Chablis 1er Cru la Foret was truly outstanding Chablis.

2005 Chablis 1er Cru la Foret
"Nose of acacia and tropical fruits with a hint of vanilla. A medium palate deceptively entices the taster into thinking its body to be broader, before attacking the palate with fine acidity, excellent length and a bit of black pepper spice."

2005 Chablis
"Roasted nuts, green and yellow apples. Focused palate and good length with a zesty finish."

2005 Argiano Non Confunditor

Argiano Non Confunditor

Tuscany, Italy

40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Syrah, 20% Sangiovese

2005, 14% Alcohol

Argiano is a noteworthy producer of Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino and stands among the giants of Tuscany with its well-known Super-Tuscan Solengo. Beginning in 2002 Argiano has made Non Confunditor each year as a more affordable alternative to Solengo that at the same time gives wine drinkers a taste of its more famous Super-Tuscan cousin. Non-Confunditor pays hommage to the winery's past as they are the Latin words written upon the Argiano Coat of Arms.

"Spicy black cherries with a touch of tobacco leaf and tree bark. The palate is initially tight with a good dose of chalky, vanillin tannins in the finish but opens nicely to become a masculine, licorice-laden wine that's perfect with red meats and stronger cheeses."