Saturday, December 8, 2007

Robert Vocoret Chablis

Domaine Robert Vocoret is nestled just outside of Chablis on the Route d'Auxerre and produces wines from some of the most choice parcels in the area. Premier Crus include Montee de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu, Foret, Vaillons, Montmains and Cote de Lechet. Vocoret also has holdings in the Grands Crus Valmur, Blanchots, les Clos and Vaudesir; the domaine is probably best known for its Grand Cru Blanchots as a green tank used for the Brentag method of heating vines and labeled Domaine Vocoret awaits a visitor to the slopes of Grand Cru Chablis (it is located about mid-slope, adjacent to the dirt road that separates les Clos and Blanchots).

There is some oak at Vocoret and the wines are generally made in an accessible style, although they do age over the medium term very well. Much of the wood that the wine sees is actually via the now almost defunct large wooden foudres that remind one of bygone days - for very gentle flavoring.

I have generally found Domaine Vocoret's wines to be dependable and at times quite outstanding with the exceptin of the 2003 Chablis AC - a wine that is so marked with acidification that it is nearly undrinkable. Even so, a vintage so hot as 2003 happens - well almost never - and I certainly want to judge a winery by their reaction to such a freakish vintage.

I recently tasted a pair of wine, both from the lauded 2005 vintage. One, the 2005 Chablis AC was good, but the 2005 Chablis 1er Cru la Foret was truly outstanding Chablis.

2005 Chablis 1er Cru la Foret
"Nose of acacia and tropical fruits with a hint of vanilla. A medium palate deceptively entices the taster into thinking its body to be broader, before attacking the palate with fine acidity, excellent length and a bit of black pepper spice."

2005 Chablis
"Roasted nuts, green and yellow apples. Focused palate and good length with a zesty finish."

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